Next to Praça XV, Downtown, the Arco do Teles opens onto Travessa do Comércio, a lane of colonial townhouses that fills up after work with sidewalk tables, draft beer and conversation.
The arch dates from the 18th century and was designed by military engineer José Fernandes Pinto Alpoim. It is named after the Teles de Menezes family, who owned the buildings there — most of them destroyed by a fire in 1790. The arch survived and became an icon of colonial Rio.
At number 13 Travessa do Comércio stood the boarding house run by Carmen Miranda’s family, where her mother served meals; the singer lived there as a young woman. Today the old houses are home to bars and restaurants.
The highlight is old-Rio atmosphere with neighborhood life: by day, combine it with the Paço Imperial, the National Historical Museum and Candelária Church; in the late afternoon the lane becomes one of Downtown’s liveliest happy-hour spots.
Tips: go on a weekday in the late afternoon, when it is busiest. At weekends Downtown empties out and many bars close — check before you go.