Largo dos Guimarães is the heart of Santa Teresa: a small square at the top of the hill where the yellow tram passes, surrounded by bars, restaurants, studios and craft shops.
Santa Teresa grew in the 19th century, when wealthy families moved up the hill to escape yellow fever and built country houses and mansions. In the 20th century it became a haven for artists and intellectuals, and its artists’-village feel lives on.
Around the square, bars serve snacks and Brazilian food, some with live music and balconies with views. On nearby streets such as Rua Almirante Alexandrino and Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno there are galleries and studios open to visitors.
The highlight is the mix of sightseeing and bohemian life: arrive by tram, have a leisurely lunch or dinner, stroll the cobbled slopes and finish at the Parque das Ruínas or the Chácara do Céu Museum, overlooking the bay.
Tips: the streets are steep — wear comfortable shoes. Go during the day or early evening and return by ride-hailing app. At weekends it is busier and the bars are livelier.