Leme

Leme is the northeastern tip of the same arc of sand as Copacabana: about 1 km of beach between Avenida Princesa Isabel and the hill that gives it its name. Calmer and more family-oriented, it is the favorite stretch of those who want the Copacabana seafront with less bustle.

The name (“leme” means rudder) is usually explained by the shape of Morro do Leme, said to resemble a ship’s rudder. The neighborhood began to be settled in the early 20th century, after the Túnel Novo opened, and for a long time kept the feel of a seaside village, with low houses facing the beach. Even today it is one of the most residential and relaxed stretches of the seafront.

At the top of the hill stands the Forte Duque de Caxias, also known as the Leme Fort, a military area open to visitors. It is reached by a paved path of about 800 meters, uphill, through a stretch of Atlantic Forest. From the top, the view takes in the whole curve of Copacabana, Sugarloaf and the entrance to Guanabara Bay.

At the foot of the hill, right by the sea, the Caminho dos Pescadores (Fishermen’s Path) is a walkway that skirts the rocks. Fishermen cast their lines from early morning, and visitors stroll to the sound of waves breaking on the rocks — one of the quietest corners of the seafront.

Leme’s highlight is sunrise: the light appears over the sea and gradually spreads along the entire Copacabana seafront. The kiosks at the end of the beach are great for breakfast with a view or a coconut water in the late afternoon.