Between Copacabana and Ipanema, the Pedra do Arpoador (Arpoador Rock) juts into the sea and separates two beaches: on one side, the small Praia do Diabo; on the other, the start of Ipanema. It is one of Rio’s best-loved spots for watching the sea, the surfers and, above all, the sunset.
The name (“harpooner”) goes back to colonial times, when whales came close to the rock and were harpooned from there. Today the rock is a natural lookout, open to all: from the top you see the whole of Ipanema and Leblon, the Dois Irmãos hill and Pedra da Gávea, with the open sea ahead.
Arpoador has a special place in the history of Rio’s beach culture. It was here, in the 1950s and 1960s, that Brazilian surfing was born, with the city’s first surfers. It is also said that the first bikini on a Rio beach was worn here, in 1948, by Miriam Etz. And it was here that the Circo Voador put up its first tent, in 1982.
The highlight is the sunset. Especially in autumn and winter, the sun sinks behind the Dois Irmãos hill, over the sea, and the audience sitting on the rock applauds the show — a Rio tradition. On clear days, golden light washes over the whole Ipanema and Leblon seafront.
Next to the rock is the Parque Garota de Ipanema, a small green area with a lookout and leisure space. On the other side, Praia do Diabo, narrow and with a strong sea, is better for looking and taking photos than for swimming. In the water, surfers remain loyal to Arpoador’s waves.
Tips: for sunset, arrive at least an hour early to get a spot on the rock. Wear shoes with good grip — the rock can be slippery — and keep away from the edge when the sea is rough. Carry only what you need and, at night, come and go by ride-hailing app.