Tijuca Forest

The Tijuca Forest, part of Tijuca National Park, is one of the largest urban forests in the world. Trails, waterfalls, lookouts and peaks are scattered across the mountains in the middle of the city, and within minutes the noise of traffic gives way to birdsong and running water.

Behind all this green lies a story of recovery. In the 19th century, coffee plantations had stripped the slopes and threatened the springs that supplied the city with water. In 1861, by order of Emperor Pedro II, Major Manuel Gomes Archer began a large-scale reforestation effort here.

Archer worked with six enslaved workers whose names history has recorded: Eleutério, Constantino, Manoel, Mateus, Leopoldo and Maria. Over the years, some 100,000 seedlings were planted. The work was later continued by the Baron of Escragnolle and, in 1961, the area became part of the newly created Tijuca National Park.

Among the most visited spots are the Capela Mayrink, a small chapel in the woods that received panels by Candido Portinari — the originals were moved to a museum and the chapel now displays reproductions —, the Açude da Solidão, a pond surrounded by trees, and the Cascatinha Taunay waterfall. For a challenge, the Pico da Tijuca trail leads to one of the highest points in the city, at 1,021 meters.

The highlight is variety: you can take a short tour of lookouts and waterfalls or spend the whole day on longer trails. Capuchin monkeys, coatis and many birds are often seen. The visitor center, in the entrance area at Praça Afonso Viseu, has maps and trail information.