On the sands of Copacabana in the late afternoon, you will often see pairs sending the ball back and forth over a net without using their hands: this is footvolley (futevôlei), a sport born right here and now played all over the world. Watching — or trying a few touches — is a very Carioca way to enjoy the beach.
Footvolley emerged in Copacabana in the 1960s, and Octávio de Moraes is often cited as its creator. The story goes that when football on the sand began to face restrictions, players adapted the volleyball nets and started playing with their feet, chest and head.
The rules resemble volleyball’s: pairs on each side, up to three touches per side and the ball crossing the net — all without hands. The result is a game of great skill and acrobatic moves that draws onlookers to the edge of the courts.
On the same beach, another classic scene is “altinho”: circles of people keeping the ball in the air with their feet, chest and head, with no score and no competition — the only goal is not to let the ball drop. It is one of the most Carioca pastimes there is, seen in Copacabana, Ipanema and other beaches around the city.
Copacabana is also a stage for beach soccer. In 1995 it hosted the first Beach Soccer World Championship, won by Brazil, and since then the sport has grown, with national teams all over the world. The courts set up along the beach still host pickup games and tournaments.
Tips: late afternoon is the best time to watch, when the sun is softer and the courts are full. If you want to learn, you will find teachers on the sand offering beginner classes — just ask. Bring water and sunscreen, and ask before joining an altinho circle.