In Urca, on the isthmus between Sugarloaf and Morro Cara de Cão, the Fortaleza de São João (St John’s Fortress) guards the spot where Rio de Janeiro was born. It was here that Estácio de Sá founded the city on March 1, 1565, during the Portuguese campaign to drive the French out of Guanabara Bay.
The fortress grew from the first defenses built at that time and was expanded over the centuries. Together with the Fortaleza de Santa Cruz in Niterói, across the water, it formed the main barrier protecting the entrance to the bay — enemy ships had to pass between the cannons of both.
Today the area belongs to the Army and houses its Physical Training Center. Part of the historic structures can be seen on guided visits, which take in walls, bastions and the landmark commemorating the city’s founding.
The highlight is the mix of history and scenery: from the walls you see the mouth of the bay, the Santa Cruz Fortress on the other side and Sugarloaf up close. The visit helps you understand why Rio was founded exactly here, at a strategic point between sea and mountains.
Afterwards, take a stroll around Urca, one of the city’s most peaceful neighborhoods, with its seawall along the bay, Praia Vermelha beach and the Pista Cláudio Coutinho, a flat path between forest and sea at the foot of Sugarloaf.
Tips: guided visits must be booked in advance (usually at least 48 hours ahead) through the Army’s official channels. Bring a photo ID, wear comfortable shoes and sunscreen. As it is a military area, follow the guides’ instructions on photography and where you can go.
Official website: Fortaleza de São João ↗