At the head of Avenida Presidente Vargas, Downtown, the Church of Nossa Senhora da Candelária is one of the grandest in Rio. Its imposing façade and great dome dominate the avenue, among office buildings and cultural centers.
According to tradition, the first chapel was built in the early 17th century by a couple who survived a storm at sea aboard a ship called Candelária, in fulfillment of a vow. The current church was begun in 1775 and inaugurated in 1811, but the dome was only completed in 1877.
It was built with lioz limestone brought from Portugal, and the interior is clad in Italian marble. The bronze doors, from around 1901, and the ceiling paintings by João Zeferino da Costa, which tell the legend of the ship, deserve a close look.
Candelária has also been a stage for the country’s recent history. On April 10, 1984, a huge crowd gathered in front of the church for the great “Diretas Já” rally, calling for the return of direct presidential elections. In 1993, eight young people who slept nearby were killed by police in the Candelária massacre; a memorial recalls the victims.
The highlight is the interior: the combination of marble, the light falling from the dome and the large paintings creates a solemn, luminous space, quite different from the gilded Baroque churches of Downtown. The church blends elements of different styles, the result of more than a century of construction.
Tips: go on a weekday, when Downtown is lively, and check visiting hours on the official channels. Combine it with the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil and the Casa França-Brasil, right next to the church, and with the Arco do Teles and the Paço Imperial nearby.
Official website: Igreja da Candelária ↗